August Homage To M. Guérard
Back to School at La Bastide en Gascogne under the Master's eye.
When talent lives in your backyard, there's no need to go farther for inspiration.
As August rolled into the end of Summer, there were still a few days to squander before the ‘back-to-school’ blues arrived. Even as an adult, the beginning of September is reinforced by France’s La Rentrée culture, where the entire country goes back to… school, work, real life, and wearing non-vacation clothes. There harbors some latent nervous anticipation of another new year just beginning. Am I the only one that still dreams about school uniforms and pencil sharpeners?
To delay the return to real life, even by two days, seemed too enticing. I took a quick one-hour jaunt to the nearby La Bastide en Gascogne for the last breath of August air; it was restorative in more than just the luxury hotel and spa waters way. What started as a breakaway became an invitation to return to the cuisine of the master- Michel Guérard, under the deft hand of local Chef Jérôme Artiguebère. I ate all my meals at the hotel—from the first dinner to the last lunch—six perfect meals. Full stop. Rather than a restaurant review, this is a sensory reminder of why I cook and what I enjoy eating.
And although this could end up sounding like the fangirl that I am, this intensive dive into the Guérard-influenced kitchen did a swift and gentle kick in the rear to remind me why I am such an M.G. fan as well as jumpstarting my own return to the kitchen. Isn’t this what true inspiration is about? And so, let me inspire you a little as we turn our backs on Summer (or Winter if you are down the Southern Hemisphere way) and look forward to the new season’s bounty with a refresher course in culinary focus- on choice and simplicity.
While at the charming Hotel La Bastide en Gascogne, I opted for the most straightforward three-course menus over any more extended tasting menu. I chose to revel in rediscovering the classic Guérard approach of what makes a startling starter, a satisfying main course, and a perfect and generous dessert to finish. We’ll leave the small savory cake nibbles (as apéros above) and rich buttery warm mignardises (to finish) for their welcome bonuses for another time.
Begin with the beginning. A French meal is defined not so much by the recipes used and how they are served. Apéritif drinks and nibbles are first, of course, but once we move to the table, serviette in place, and appetite fully engaged, the first course to arrive is like the much-anticipated overture to a grand opera or the exciting fanfare of a circus. In French, we say ‘l’Entrée’ because it is indeed the entrance or beginning of the meal. Misused in English for the main course, and often missing in Anglo meals, for me, an entrée is the most exciting of the courses. This is where a Chef’s talents shine and set the tone for the rest of the meal. My starter at La Bastide en Gascogne was like the young cousin of an old friend from Eugenie-les-Bains—a perfectly-cooked soft boiled egg floating on a nest of tarragon-scented sweet green peas and thinly-sliced red onion, bathed in a cool garden-green ‘mayonnaise,’ and served with a crispy rosemary waffle.
Harking to the famous 1977 egg dish created at Les Pres d’Eugénie by M. Guérard—l’Oeuf Poule au Caviar à la Coque and still served today, this modern dish is a few steps simpler and marries the fresh egg with sweet green peas and tarragon but recalls the deft handling of a mayonnaise-like sauce that completes covers the surface of the smooth egg. While I might not master the techniques in all the dishes the Chef and his brigade created, I can steal a few choice ideas for my table. This week, I’ll make L’Oeuf Mayonnaise (all the rage again these days!) and a light garden-flavored homemade mayonnaise tinted with chives, roquette, and radish sprouts from my potager.
The Plat Principal or Main Course is kept to a bare minimum now. A beautiful piece of fresh fish or tender meat accompanied by a striking vegetable condiment. I was torn between the Confit of Lamb Shoulder served with a cumin/turmeric confited lemon, and the perfectly cooked Maigre Roti et sa Crumble de Piquillos served with Fennel and candied peppers. I couldn’t get that delicate slab of Maigre or Croaker (Shade and Grunt are other names) and its sweet red pepper topping out of my mind.
As my mind scanned the kitchen counter back at Camont, laden with baskets of sweet red onions, basque peppers, and a fresh farm chicken, I decided to play with the red pepper crumble as an accompaniment for a roasted poultry dish. I’ll substitute the thinly-sliced onion for the fennel and reach to achieve the delicate balance of sweet and sour tastes in the original dish.
Desserts are always easy for me- but easier still was discovering the original recipe for The Gateau de Maman Guérard in one of my many MG cookbooks— Mots et Mets. This flourless chocolate cake is topped with its own uncooked egg-rich, mousse-like batter and served with a deeper-flavored cocoa and butter sauce. While I have my own favorite dense French chocolate cake adapted years ago from La Belle Gasconne Marie-Claude Gracia, I love that this was ‘self-frosting’ and will try it out soon.
So what did I learn? How was I inspired? It’s not always a specific recipe or technique, but an approach to cooking that inspires me. Michel Guérard has earned and kept his 3 Michelin stars for 45 years. It’s not just about longevity but a commitment to continue to refresh, refine, and preserve the best of your kitchen… and pass it on. I hope you find, in these monthly words, that same commitment to refresh, refine and pass on my cooking defined by over 30 years in Gascony.
This little clafoutis above was a light and fresh savory take on the usual dense cherry dessert. It was a perfect side to another piece of fish. Today, I roast a farm chicken, make a savory ‘crumble’ with sweet red and orange Basque peppers, create a garden mayonnaise with chives and other greens, and adapt a chocolate cake recipe to serve with a frozen cream cloud for dessert. School’s open next week, kids; Let’s get back to the kitchen!
What gorgeous food! When I was teaching at the school, the owner wanted a healthy/diet class so I got a used copy of MG Cuisine Minceur as inspiration. Turns out that wasn't what she wanted at all! It's a lovely book though and while I haven't made many of the recipes I enjoy leafing through and being inspired.
Way coolio food ideas & photos!